Back on the Road

(Sorry I am having some formatting problems with this one!)

Chelsea with Kermit

After spending 17 days in Indian Creek we are finally on the road again.  We are currently somewhere in Arizona, and headed for the Grand Canyon (Chelsea is driving in case any one was concerned about my multitasking).  Neither of us have been to the Grand Canyon so we thought it would be neat to check it out, and after nearly a month in Utah we are excited to visit a new state.

The Creek was amazing.  We both improved vastly not only since our last time there, but from the beginning of our stay to the end.  Chelsea not only climbed, but led her first 5.12, a beautiful splitter called “Swedin Ringle.”  The last few feet go from rattley fingers to tight fingers and once Chelsea practices that size a bit more she will be able to easily send the climb.  She also made great progress on her multiple trip project, “Coyne Crack.”

As for me, I went from a mild hatred of splitter cracks, to acceptance, to enjoyment.  I had an awesome time following Chelsea up many classics, and even led a few climbs myself. 

Because the Creek is full of splitter cracks that can be the same size for 100 feet, you need a LOT of gear to climb many of the classics.  Most people don’t have 10 of the same size cam, so it is good to make friends to climb with and share gear.  We were fortunate to meet many people on our trip, and reunite with people that we had met earlier on the road.

Chelsea on Swedin Ringle 5.12 (Photo by Jason)

 We met two great guys, Alan and Dana, on one of our first days of the trip.  They are from Washington and we spent many nights around the campfire roasting marshmallows and being entertained by tales of their travels in China, Pakistan, Nepal, South America and all over the States.  On one wet day when climbing wasn’t quite an option they invited us to go on a hike with them to try to find the 5 Faces- an ancient Anasazi pictograph in Davis Canyon.  We agreed and jumped in our car to follow them.  We didn’t realize at the time that getting to the canyon involved 8 miles of four wheeling over some crazy terrain.  We successfully navigated the road and hiked around for awhile but weren’t able to find the pictographs.  We bumped down the road in the dark back to camp.  Although we didn’t find the pictographs it was still an awesome day of hiking, searching, off roading and hanging out in good company.

Chelsea on Coyne Crack 5.11

Dan on Incredible Hand Crack

We were also graced by the hilarious company of Max and Dan, two guys that we had met in Maple Canyon.  They are also on a road trip, touring the West in a sweet teal minivan.  You can check out their blog at rocktheminivan.blogspot.com .  Max and Dan are reviewing gear for SuperTopo and we got a huge kick of hearing them discuss their gear.  We would listen to them from out tent while they analyzed the neck baffles, hoods, zippers and pull cords on the different sleeping bags they were testing.  We didn’t get to climb too many days with them because of a spell of bad weather, but it was great to be in their company for a few days.

A couple days ago, we were rounding the corner at one of the crags and we ran into Kristal and Jason, an awesome pair of people from Canada that we met in Joe’s Valley.  They are on a year-long road trip (making us look like pansies!), and you can check out their blog at ropeless.blogspot.com.  They primarily boulder so they have a similar style of crack climbing to me (lie backs, using face holds).  Jason and Kristal are two of the most exuberant, fun people we have met on this trip and we really enjoyed being in the company of people who love climbing for climbing, not for petty grade grubbing or any other superficial reason. 

Karl starting up Binge and Purge

The same day that we reunited with Kristal and Jason, we found Karl in our campsite!  We met Karl this summer while living in Tahoe.  He is from Reno and although we had only spent one day climbing with him before, we heard he was a notorious offwidth climber.  Offwidths are climbs that are wider than the usual hand and fist cracks.  They must be climbed very creatively by sticking your knees, thighs, calves and shoes in the crack and by stacking both your hands together or sticking in your whole arm or shoulder.  Needless to say, not too many people climb this size of crack.  However, Karl is extremely psyched.  We got to watch him on Binge and Purge, a  5.11 that left him shaking, quaking, bleeding, and smiling like a crazy person. 

Although the weather stayed relatively good, we did have a few days of snow and rain.  On those days, Chelsea and I hibernated in our tent and found creative ways to spend our time.  Aside from the obvious movie watching, reading and sleeping, we needed some other ways to pass the time.  We made turkeys and Thanksgiving decorations out of cardboard and paint pens. 

We also became very accomplished cereal killers.  In one impressive period of a few hours, we polished off an entire box of Cinnamon Life.  All 13 servings.  Our other victims included Marshmallow Treasures, Coco and Peanut Butter Fusion, Honey Nut Toasted Oats, Apple Dapples, and Oatmeal Squares.  None of them lasted more than 2 days after opening.  

Our movie theater

After spending so much time in the Creek, amongst climbers and cows, without cell service or toilets, it will be interesting to go back to civilization and the hustle bustle of a National Park.  I am excited to continue our journey and enjoy the weather while it is still good!

A delicious dinner waiting to be cooked!

A snowy morning

Star checking out the snow

The dogs napping