Sunday, November 21, 2010

Let it Snow

We arrived at the Grand Canyon in the evening, set up camp and woke up the next morning to 18-degree temps and a big ugly crow pecking at our 5-gallon water jug.  The bird poked a hole in the jug and water trickled out and immediately froze.  Back to the tent!  Eventually it warmed up and we hiked along the rim of the canyon, which is truly quite a site. 



After we had our fill of walking around, we headed towards Flagstaff to see what we could see.  The drive there was absolutely beautiful!  It did not look like we were in Arizona at all, but rather Wyoming or some other place full of wide open plains, gorgeous mountains, and unending forests.  At one point we pulled the car over, let the dogs out of the back, and went frolicking through the forest. 

This is a video of the dogs playing in the snow, it was supposed to be at the end... but oh well

We arrived in Flagstaff, which we thought would be a huge city (maybe we only made it to the outskirts?).  It was small and cute and we found a local climbing gym and got beta on the climbing in Arizona.  We were not aware that there were so many options!  We hadn’t planned on staying in Arizona long because we wanted to make it to Bishop soon, so we were a little overwhelmed trying to choose one place for a quick visit.  After being in one place for so long, with all of the questioning of where and what next taken away, we seemed to have lost some of our road tripping mojo.  We sat in a coffee shop forever, Googling distances and driving times, and debating what to do.  Eventually we just decided to drive to Bishop.  We hopped on Historic Route 66 and headed west. 

View of the mountains from the Buttermilks

We made it to Bishop and slept in the back of the car up by the Buttermilks.  We woke up to gusty winds and headed to the boulders for a quick bit of climbing.  Our pads were literally blowing away beneath us as we climbed, and the weather forecasted snow for the next few days, so we decided to head up to Tahoe where we would have a roof over our head, and wait out the storm. 
Me on Ironman Traverse on a previous trip to Bishop

So here we are in Tahoe, watching the snow fall outside and paging through the Bishop guidebook.  Psyche is incredibly high, if only the weather would clear!  We have met up with two great friends, Eric and Scotty for the trip down south, and we expect to meet lots of other friends down there.  As for now, we are doing what we usually do when the weather keeps us from the rocks- eating!
We got quite a bit of snow last night

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Back on the Road

(Sorry I am having some formatting problems with this one!)

Chelsea with Kermit


After spending 17 days in Indian Creek we are finally on the road again.  We are currently somewhere in Arizona, and headed for the Grand Canyon (Chelsea is driving in case any one was concerned about my multitasking).  Neither of us have been to the Grand Canyon so we thought it would be neat to check it out, and after nearly a month in Utah we are excited to visit a new state.

The Creek was amazing.  We both improved vastly not only since our last time there, but from the beginning of our stay to the end.  Chelsea not only climbed, but led her first 5.12, a beautiful splitter called “Swedin Ringle.”  The last few feet go from rattley fingers to tight fingers and once Chelsea practices that size a bit more she will be able to easily send the climb.  She also made great progress on her multiple trip project, “Coyne Crack.”


As for me, I went from a mild hatred of splitter cracks, to acceptance, to enjoyment.  I had an awesome time following Chelsea up many classics, and even led a few climbs myself. 

Because the Creek is full of splitter cracks that can be the same size for 100 feet, you need a LOT of gear to climb many of the classics.  Most people don’t have 10 of the same size cam, so it is good to make friends to climb with and share gear.  We were fortunate to meet many people on our trip, and reunite with people that we had met earlier on the road.
Chelsea on Swedin Ringle 5.12 (Photo by Jason)
 We met two great guys, Alan and Dana, on one of our first days of the trip.  They are from Washington and we spent many nights around the campfire roasting marshmallows and being entertained by tales of their travels in China, Pakistan, Nepal, South America and all over the States.  On one wet day when climbing wasn’t quite an option they invited us to go on a hike with them to try to find the 5 Faces- an ancient Anasazi pictograph in Davis Canyon.  We agreed and jumped in our car to follow them.  We didn’t realize at the time that getting to the canyon involved 8 miles of four wheeling over some crazy terrain.  We successfully navigated the road and hiked around for awhile but weren’t able to find the pictographs.  We bumped down the road in the dark back to camp.  Although we didn’t find the pictographs it was still an awesome day of hiking, searching, off roading and hanging out in good company.
Chelsea on Coyne Crack 5.11

Dan on Incredible Hand Crack
We were also graced by the hilarious company of Max and Dan, two guys that we had met in Maple Canyon.  They are also on a road trip, touring the West in a sweet teal minivan.  You can check out their blog at rocktheminivan.blogspot.com .  Max and Dan are reviewing gear for SuperTopo and we got a huge kick of hearing them discuss their gear.  We would listen to them from out tent while they analyzed the neck baffles, hoods, zippers and pull cords on the different sleeping bags they were testing.  We didn’t get to climb too many days with them because of a spell of bad weather, but it was great to be in their company for a few days.


A couple days ago, we were rounding the corner at one of the crags and we ran into Kristal and Jason, an awesome pair of people from Canada that we met in Joe’s Valley.  They are on a year-long road trip (making us look like pansies!), and you can check out their blog at ropeless.blogspot.com.  They primarily boulder so they have a similar style of crack climbing to me (lie backs, using face holds).  Jason and Kristal are two of the most exuberant, fun people we have met on this trip and we really enjoyed being in the company of people who love climbing for climbing, not for petty grade grubbing or any other superficial reason. 
Karl starting up Binge and Purge

The same day that we reunited with Kristal and Jason, we found Karl in our campsite!  We met Karl this summer while living in Tahoe.  He is from Reno and although we had only spent one day climbing with him before, we heard he was a notorious offwidth climber.  Offwidths are climbs that are wider than the usual hand and fist cracks.  They must be climbed very creatively by sticking your knees, thighs, calves and shoes in the crack and by stacking both your hands together or sticking in your whole arm or shoulder.  Needless to say, not too many people climb this size of crack.  However, Karl is extremely psyched.  We got to watch him on Binge and Purge, a  5.11 that left him shaking, quaking, bleeding, and smiling like a crazy person. 

Although the weather stayed relatively good, we did have a few days of snow and rain.  On those days, Chelsea and I hibernated in our tent and found creative ways to spend our time.  Aside from the obvious movie watching, reading and sleeping, we needed some other ways to pass the time.  We made turkeys and Thanksgiving decorations out of cardboard and paint pens. 

We also became very accomplished cereal killers.  In one impressive period of a few hours, we polished off an entire box of Cinnamon Life.  All 13 servings.  Our other victims included Marshmallow Treasures, Coco and Peanut Butter Fusion, Honey Nut Toasted Oats, Apple Dapples, and Oatmeal Squares.  None of them lasted more than 2 days after opening.  
Our movie theater

After spending so much time in the Creek, amongst climbers and cows, without cell service or toilets, it will be interesting to go back to civilization and the hustle bustle of a National Park.  I am excited to continue our journey and enjoy the weather while it is still good!
A delicious dinner waiting to be cooked!
A snowy morning
Star checking out the snow
The dogs napping

Monday, November 8, 2010

Indian Creek

Indian Creek.  Well, well, where should I begin?  When I first met Chelsea, she was always talking about this place.  Obsessively.  All she could think about was when the next time would be that she could return and try all her favorite climbs again.  She would show any interested party her pictures from the Creek, be it me, my dog or a nearby coffee cup that was wondering what the Creek was all about.  Surely, I would love this place too!  I mean it’s Chelsea and it seems that we love all the same things (except of course, for oranges).  I was so excited when we loaded up the car with a bunch of friends from Cal Poly and headed to Indian Creek for Spring break this past March.  That excitement lasted until I got on our very first climb at the Creek, Generic Crack.  I absolutely flailed.  I had no idea what to do and I could barely make it up 20 feet before giving up.  The problem was, that Indian Creek is all splitter cracks.  That means that the sandstone has one uniform crack running from top to bottom and the face surface is smooth and featureless.  I was used to climbing on holds- slopers, crimps, jugs.  When climbing cracks, however, you are not climbing what is there, you are climbing what is not there.  The object is to fill the empty space (the crack) with your fingers, hands, fists and shoes.  It seemed effortless for everyone else, but I could do nothing.  I resorted to lying back every climb I did.


It was implied that we would be returning to the Creek on this trip.  I don’t know anyone who loves anyplace as much as Chelsea loves the Creek, except for maybe me and an ice cream shop or Titan and the dog park.  So here we are, 7500 miles and 63 days into our trip, sitting in a beautiful campsite set amongst amazing red sandstone pillars.  The weather is perfect (although not for long) and we plan to spend a lot more time here.  My technique is improving, and against all odds, I have been making it to the top of every climb!  My spirits are high as I can see the progress I have made since my last visit here.  Because Indian Creek is in the middle of no where and blog updates will be infrequent, I have been keeping a journal of notes about what is going on.       






October 31, Day 1


Dropped my sports bra into the toilet.  Thankfully the toilet was free from anything but water.
Drive into Indian Creek, set up camp
Follow three climbs, no falls!






November 1, Day 2


Epic on a finger crack, hike back to the car for more gear
Burritos for dinner





November 2, Day 3


Feel a familiar sensation.  Hard to identify at first.  Ah yes, warmth.  We are climbing in sports bras, in November.  Quite nice.  





November 3, Day 4


Time for a rest day.  Crack climbing is very demanding.  Very productive day of crash pad repair, letter writing, hemp bracelet making, re-taping of cams, helmet decorating, tanning, chocolate pudding and mac and cheese consumption.  
Head to Alan and Dana’s campsite for roasted marshmallows and engaging conversation. 


My helmet is a unicorn

Chelsea's is a tiger
  



November 4, Day 5


Drive to the top of hill, discover cell phone signal
Find out Giants won World Series, yes!
Wish Shannon a Happy Birthday
Climb at Blue Gramma, where #dogs=#humans
Go to bed before the sun





November 5, Day 6


Drive to Canyonlands National Park and refill water jugs
Discover ice cream at little outpost store, 11 AM is not too early for an ice cream sandwich
Walk up and down to climbing areas, lots of people ☹, complete 1 climb
Hang out with Alan and Dana, inspiration strikes, although the subject of said inspiration is a secret until further notice





November 6, Day 7


Wake up early to attempt Coyne Crack
Chelsea rocks it
I follow it and enjoy relative success!
First Indian Creek lead- 30 ft 5.9+ yee yee
Talk with some cool guys from Spain
Climb a rad line called Battle of the Bulge





November 7, Day 8


Banana chocolate chip pancakes for breakfast
Try to lead Cave Route, fail, Chelsea finishes
Chelsea’s hands are all oozy, head for ice cream
Last day of summer?  Try to set up rain shelter for cooking and get our tan on while we can, weather report says snow
Get woken up by our friends Dan and Max, who we met in Maple.  They inform us that daylight savings time has occured and we went to bed at 8 PM not 9.  Darn.







November 8, Day 9


Rest day in Moab!